How do I repair a lathe and plaster wall?
It looks like grey crumbly cement underneath with some type of plaster covering it. How do I repair it? it's single about 10-12 inches wide and roughly speaking 3 feet high. Any suggestions?
Answers:
sounds like scaling this is a chemical sensitivity you need to find the source of the leak once that's dint trademark the area kilz will work this will stop anymore from crumbling i start with a product call structolite use this as your base pushing into the lath to make latest keys make sure this cloak is below the top layer of plaster this sets like concrete after after this sets you can use topping to finish plaster is a art so if you like to get a righteous finish call someone we still use lathe ans blue board to plaser with.honest luck
Clean up the crumblies and vacuum up around it. Put some wire lath behind the hole attaching it to the wood lath or anything is there. Cover with several coats of a mixture of combined compound and plaster of Paris 70/30. I like to use the fiberglass joint cartridge when I get close to the finished level. Finish rotten with a few layers of collective compound. Or ask Home Depot.
turn to home depot
i would carefully cut it out and replace it with a piece of drywall.....if individual the finish coat is off then you can use plaster to smooth it out
I a short time ago did some repairs to some lath and plaster this morning. You need to pick off any "loose" pieces at the edges of your existing hole. Your 1 foot by 3 foot repair may become larger! It's tough to know when to stop. When you quality you have removed the most loose pieces, it's time to start the repair. You need to purchase some "setting type" unified compound. It comes in a powder that you add hose to, and mix to a consistancy that is slightly thinner than peanut butter. It should'nt sag when applied to the wall. Fill the nouns and put some mesh tape over the edges. The joint compound that you purchase should be a 90 minute setting type. This process it will be dry within that time and you can reapply some more to finish it. I would also suggest using a regular joint compound to "plume out" and finish the area. It's easier to sand. This job is a moment or two tricky. It takes alot of practice to get aware with the tools and to get a worthy feel for the material. If you apply the cohesive compound evenly and smooth at each coat, you should have minimal sand only after the last coat is applied. Good luck (If you hold to remove to much plaster I would suggest screwing on a piece of 1/4 inch drywll in the nouns.)
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Answers:
sounds like scaling this is a chemical sensitivity you need to find the source of the leak once that's dint trademark the area kilz will work this will stop anymore from crumbling i start with a product call structolite use this as your base pushing into the lath to make latest keys make sure this cloak is below the top layer of plaster this sets like concrete after after this sets you can use topping to finish plaster is a art so if you like to get a righteous finish call someone we still use lathe ans blue board to plaser with.honest luck
Clean up the crumblies and vacuum up around it. Put some wire lath behind the hole attaching it to the wood lath or anything is there. Cover with several coats of a mixture of combined compound and plaster of Paris 70/30. I like to use the fiberglass joint cartridge when I get close to the finished level. Finish rotten with a few layers of collective compound. Or ask Home Depot.
turn to home depot
i would carefully cut it out and replace it with a piece of drywall.....if individual the finish coat is off then you can use plaster to smooth it out
I a short time ago did some repairs to some lath and plaster this morning. You need to pick off any "loose" pieces at the edges of your existing hole. Your 1 foot by 3 foot repair may become larger! It's tough to know when to stop. When you quality you have removed the most loose pieces, it's time to start the repair. You need to purchase some "setting type" unified compound. It comes in a powder that you add hose to, and mix to a consistancy that is slightly thinner than peanut butter. It should'nt sag when applied to the wall. Fill the nouns and put some mesh tape over the edges. The joint compound that you purchase should be a 90 minute setting type. This process it will be dry within that time and you can reapply some more to finish it. I would also suggest using a regular joint compound to "plume out" and finish the area. It's easier to sand. This job is a moment or two tricky. It takes alot of practice to get aware with the tools and to get a worthy feel for the material. If you apply the cohesive compound evenly and smooth at each coat, you should have minimal sand only after the last coat is applied. Good luck (If you hold to remove to much plaster I would suggest screwing on a piece of 1/4 inch drywll in the nouns.)
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